Speed Climbing Information

Speed Climbing will be a stand alone medal event at the Paris 2024 Olympic Games. CEC is committed to building a unique Speed Program to identify and support athletes in this exciting discipline.

This page contains references from both National and International historical data, plus some performance projections towards Paris 2024 and beyond. Additional information on training and development opportunities will be added over time. The current High Performance Program for Speed is detailed HERE.

 

SPEED RECORDS

Current World Records 

Female World Record:
6.53s – Aleksandra Miroslaw (POL)
Established – IFSC WorldCup, Salt Lake City, USA, May 27/ 2022

Male World Record:
5.00s – Katibin Kiromal (INA)
Established – IFSC World Cup, Chamonix, FRA, July 7/ 2022

Current Canadian Records

Female Canadian Record:

7.99s – Alannah Yip
Established – Olympic Games,Tokyo, Japan, August 6/ 2021

 

 

Male Canadian Record:

5.69s – Michael Finn-Henry
Established – IFSC World Cup, Chamonix, FRA, July 7/ 2022

 

 

CANADA Record Homologation Process

To be considered a Canadian Record, the following minimum conditions must be met:

  1. The time must be accomplished in one of the following events:
    1. Olympic or Pan American Games
    2. IFSC sanctioned competition (Senior or Youth)
    3. Continental sanctioned competition (Pan Am, NACS etc)
    4. CEC Sanctioned event (High Performance Competition, National Championship, Regional Championship) or equivalent (i.e., USAC Nationals)
    5. Select World and Master Events (World Games, Beach Games etc)
  2. Athlete must be a Canadian Citizen
  3. Speed wall on which the competition is taking place must have been approved by an appointed CEC, National or International Federation representative using the following conditions:
    1. Speed Wall is built to IFSC standard (does not need to be homologated)
    2. Using IFSC certified (stamped) Speed Holds (training holds are not permitted)
    3. Using an approved electronic timing device
    4. For more information on the CEC approval process, please contact hpd@climbingcanada.ca 

 

TIME REFERENCES

The table below provides several tangible references for age and gender categories. They are intended to help Athletes, Coaches and PTSOs to measure athlete development and to use as reference in creating training and competition objectives. **These are not intended to be used as the only benchmark in athlete development assessments. Athlete development is not always linear and several other factors must be considered.

IFSC References

2021 Senior and Youth World Championships

Category

Minimum Time 

Round of 16 WCH

Fastest Time

WCH

WC Season Best World Record
Senior Female 8.32 6.99 6.99 6.84
Senior Male 5.95 5.71 5.20 5.20
Category

Minimum Time

Round of 16 YWCH

Fastest Time

YWCH

Youth B Female 10.68 8.43

n/a

Youth B Male 7.99 6.35
Youth A Female 10.11 7.92
Youth A Male 7.24 6.01
Junior Female 10.73 7.73
Junior Male 7.36 5.80

 

CEC References

2022 Season

Category *HPP Minimum Performance Time **Speed Nationals Recommended Minimum Time
Senior Female 9.22 20.80
Senior Male 6.80 14.88
Category *HPP Minimum Performance Time **Speed Nationals Recommended Minimum Time
Youth B Female

n/a 

for 

youth categories

26.70
Youth B Male 19.98
Youth A Female 26.83
Youth A Male 18.10
Junior Female 26.83
Junior Male 18.40

 

*This is the minimum time required IN ADDITION to meeting all other High Performance Program selection criteria published HERE. This time must be achieved in an official competition using an electronic timing device.

**This is the recommended minimum time to attend Nationals. This represents 2.5 times slower than the minimum time to make the round of 16 at the most recent WCH or YWCH.

Minimum Performance Times – 2022 YWC Selections

The table below outlines the minimum times required in addition to finishing top 3 in the category. These times may be achieved at any time up until July 25th/ 2022. Minimum Performance Times must be verified via published result table or via video submission.

YWC minimum performance times are based on historical data from past YWCs plus an additional time buffer.

Minimum Times to Make Round of 16 Youth B Female Youth B Male Youth A Female Youth A Male Junior Female Junior Male
2021 YWC 10.68 7.99 10.11 7.24 10.73 7.36
2019 YWC 10.873 8.098 9.947 6.954 10.958 6.798
Average 10.7765 8.044 10.0285 7.097 10.844 7.079
2022 Minimum Performance Times – YWC Team Selection
Youth B Female Youth B Male Youth A Female Youth A Male Junior Female Junior Male
buffers: YB = +1.5s,YA = +.75s, Junior = +.50s 12.2765 9.544 10.7785 7.847 11.344 7.579

Olympic Projection References

In the lead up to Paris 2024, where Speed will be a standalone discipline, CEC wishes to provide a guideline for athletes focusing on speed training. The below times are there as a suggestion of what athletes should be tracking toward. In no way should this be construed as qualification times, but rather performance indicators.

MEN Time Speed Nationals 2022 Time Aug 2022 Time Aug 2023 Time Aug 2024 Podium at OG
Paris 2024 6.10 5.90 5.80 5.70 5.40
LA 2028 8.00 6.80 6.40 6.00 5.30
Brisbane 2032 10.00 8.00 7.50 7.00 5.10

 

WOMEN Time Speed Nationals 2022 Time Aug 2022 Time Aug 2023 Time Aug 2024 Podium at OG
Paris 2024 8.10 7.80 7.50 7.20 6.90
LA 2028 10.00 8.70 8.10 7.80 6.60
Brisbane 2032 12.00 11.70 11.10 9.80 6.50

 

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FAQ - How can I qualify for CEC Senior National Events this year? How many quotas does my province have? Who do I contact? What if (insert your question here)?

Don't be in the dark any longer! Here is all you need to know for QUALIFICATION to Senior Boulder and Lead Championships! If we missed your question, put it in the comment, and we will add it to the list!

Link in bio / Lien en bio

FAQ - Comment puis-je me qualifier pour les événements nationaux seniors du CEC cette année? De combien de places de quotas ma province dispose-t-elle? Qui dois-je contacter ? Et si (insérez votre question ici) ?

Ne soyez plus dans le noir ! Voici tout ce que vous devez savoir pour la QUALIFICATION aux Championnats Senior Boulder et Lead!

Si nous avons oublié votre question, mettez-la en commentaire, et nous l'ajouterons à la liste !

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